Perched amid the dramatic peaks of the Rif Mountains, Chefchaouen is a city swathed in a thousand shades of blue. Often dubbed the “Blue Pearl” of Morocco, this town, equal parts serene and surreal, has become a favourite among photographers, seekers of peace, and yes, curious travellers like myself. But as we drove the winding road, ascending into the hills, a question lingered in my mind: Is Chefchaouen just another pretty tourist trap?

To my relief, and slight surprise, it isn’t.

Chefchaouen’s charm doesn’t feel orchestrated. The streets aren’t polished, and while you’ll undoubtedly spot fellow travellers angling for the perfect Instagram shot, the medina itself retains an authenticity sometimes diluted in more visited Moroccan cities. There are no aggressive vendors pulling you by the sleeve or elaborate schemes to lure you into carpet shops. In fact, it was refreshing to walk freely without being hassled, to browse slowly, to meet only relaxed curiosity in return.

That laid-back atmosphere, I suspect, is no accident. After all, the surrounding Rif region is one of the world’s largest hash-producing areas. While the town itself is far from a stoner’s paradise, the mellow vibe of Chefchaouen might just have something to do with it. People smile easily here. Shopkeepers chat without an agenda. It felt like being allowed to be - a nice change in Morocco.

The blue that binds

The question most visitors ask first: Why is there so much blue? History offers a few theories. Some say the colour was introduced by Jewish refugees in the 1930s, symbolising the divine and the infinite sky. Others argue it keeps mosquitoes at bay or simply that it keeps houses cool in the sun. Whatever the origin, the tradition stuck - and is lovingly maintained. It’s not uncommon to spot a man or woman with a bucket of indigo paint, giving their doorstep or wall a fresh coat. The result? A medina that feels like a living canvas, serene and dream-like.

Wandering without purpose

We spent our two days simply walking - no destination in mind, no map. The alleyways twist and narrow in a way that might be confusing in Marrakesh, but here, it’s a pleasure to get lost. Around every corner, a new door, another lazy cat, or a street artist setting up a makeshift gallery. Place Outa el Hammam is the medina’s heart, home to the 15th-century Kasbah and the Grand Mosque—the square pulsates gently with local life. Older men sip mint tea beneath orange trees, and children dart through the fountain spray. Climb the Kasbah’s towers for a view that brings the blue into perspective—hundreds of rooftops tumbling down the hills like waves.

No visit is complete without the climb to the Spanish Mosque, perched on a hill overlooking the town. We made the trek in the late afternoon, joined by local teenagers and a few goats. From the top, we watched as the sun slipped behind the mountains, casting golden light over the sea of blue below. It was quiet. Peaceful. Beautiful.

If the town starts to feel too sleepy, lace up your boots. A short walk from the medina leads to Ras El Maa, a small waterfall where locals do laundry and cool off in the summer heat. A little further afield is Talassemtane National Park, a wonderland of cedar trees, hidden valleys, and the Akchour Waterfalls- one of the most rewarding hikes I’ve done in Morocco.

Tagines, tea & tranquillity

Chefchaouen may be small, but it’s rich in Moroccan flavour. At Restaurant Triana, we relaxed on a cool terrace overlooking the small river running from its mountain waterfall, while tucking into a lamb and prune tagine with a view over the rooftops. Another night, we found a quiet rooftop café where the mint tea came strong and sweet and where guests began spontaneously playing various instruments.

Staying the night (or two)

There are many B&Bs scattered through the medina and surrounding hills, each offering its own take on Moroccan hospitality. We stayed at Usha Guesthouse, a lovely and authentic spot tucked into one of Chefchaouen’s quieter corners. The rooms were simple but full of charm, and the rooftop terrace was a highlight - perfect for morning coffee or watching the sunset blush the blue walls.A word of advice for fellow travellers: wherever you stay in Chefchaouen, prepare for stairs. The medina clings to the mountainside, and verticality is part of the city’s DNA. Narrow staircases are everywhere, often uneven and charmingly crooked. If you pack light, your knees will thank you.

Getting Practical

Chefchaouen can be reached by road from Tangier (two hours), Tetouan (an hour), or Fes (four hours). The journey winds through pretty landscapes, dotted with olive groves and shepherds guiding their flocks. We had flown from Gatwick to Malaga to Tetuan where we easily found a private driver to take us to Chefchaouen for around £20. There are direct flights from Stansted to Tangier.

Once in town, choose a riad or guesthouse with a rooftop terrace as you’ll want to watch the changing light across the hills.

Spring and autumn are ideal times to visit, with warm days and cool evenings. And if you’re two women, and if you’re wondering about safety, as two women travelling, we felt completely safe, and I believe that I would have felt the same way had I been travelling solo.

The Verdict?

Chefchaouen isn’t a tourist trap. It’s a quiet pocket of colour and calm, where time slows and senses sharpen. Go there with no expectations. Wander. Talk. Taste. Breathe in the blue. And let this Moroccan gem surprise you the way it did me.